Vanadzor

Church of the Holy Mother of God: built in 1828 to replace an earlier construction dating from the thirteenth century which was destroyed in the earthquake of 1826, the church is a checkerboard of orange and black tufa stones. One of the few churches to remain active during Soviet times, in the overgrown graveyard ancient khachkars compete for space with some intriguing more modern headstones, one of which bore more than a passing resemblance to Stalin. All share a downriver view of the sprawlin